Elizabethan Clothing

Fashion styles worn by the Elizabethan aristocracy did not change a lot from the time of Henry Viii to Elizabeth I. Elizabethan clothes worn at Elizabeth's court at Eltham Palace would still have been recognized by Henry and his advisors.

Tudor clothes had head coverings which were sturdy and skirts which were bell-shaped. Over-sized jewelled coats were worn by men. Fashions were made from heavy brocades, cloth-of-gold and other expensive material. Jewellery and the use of symbolism was still very much in vogue.

The sumptuary tax on articles of clothing was still on the books. Anywhere from the color of the cloth to the ornate design of the decoration could be taxed. No one class was prohibited from wearing cloth-of-gold, for instance. However, if it was worn, it was a symbol that the person was wealthy and they could afford to pay the fee.

By the late 1500's, courtiers at Hatfield or Kenilworth Castle were at the forefront of fashion. Elizabethan clothing had become extremely important in showing a person's status at court. Hats typified this status. The taller the hat, the more important the person underneath it.

Rich material was often a gift (or a bribe), while jewelled sleeves, gloves, or ruffs were often presented to highly placed courtiers as reminders of the sender.

There were complaints of outrageousness concerning what clothes had become; the decadence of style and form. But although grumbles were heard, everybody followed the lead of Elizabeth I.

For richer families, imported linen or even silk were used for some clothes, but it would still have been common for them to wear wool. Wealth was shown not only in the quality of the cloth, but in the number and quality of colours worn, as some dyes were very expensive. Natural dyes tend to produce muted colours in browns, greens and dull reds, and so the wealthy Viking or Saxon would probably wear the brightest colours he/she could afford, making them look garish to our modern eyes.

Elizabethan Fashion at Court: The Ladies
Women's fashions ruled the day during the last Tudor's reign. With a female monarch on the throne, it wasn't surprising that the emphasis was on the female form. The shape of a woman took a radical turn in 1590 when the drum farthingale became the standard of fashion. This shape was produced by strapping a large platter-like contraption around the waist, and then allowing the material of the gown to flow over the drum.

Full head coverings were quickly discarded. The French hood gave way to small caps, hats, and cauls. Some women just put flowers in their hair while others scandalized the court by wearing men's hats over their caps.

Tudor fashion offered long, flowing sleeves. By the time of Elizabeth, sleeves (which were separate garments and had to be pinned on) could be found in two styles; either closely fitted from shoulder to wrist, or greatly padded and often ending in a tight wrist decorated with a small ruff or cuff of lace.

The Gentlemen
Not to be outdone by the ladies, Elizabethan clothes for men emphasized their lower bodies. Long gowns were no longer in favour. Legs were covered in hose, and meant to be admired. A garter placed just below the knee drew the eye to the shape of calf muscles. To emphasise a trim waist, and the muscled leg, breeches would be worn, topped with a form-fitting doublet. To achieve the fullness desired, breeches would be filled with either bran or horse hair.

For Both Sexes
Ruffs could become large. At court, some were quite elaborate as they would be decorated with jewels, or flowers. Although usually worn around the neck, ruffs could also make their appearance around a person's wrist.
Jewellry was never out of fashion. It was worn not only on ears, wrists, and fingers, but Elizabethan clothing would be covered with pearls (Elizabeth I's favourite ornament), emeralds, rubies, and other precious stones. Jewels would be moved from one garment to another.

Slip-on shoes were worn by women, most often with a very low heel. With the long-sweeping skirt, the shoe was usually never seen. Shoes for men were also slipper-type, although boots were also worn.

Elizabethan Fashion Away From Court
As with clothes during the early Tudor times, people in the countryside dressed in the same style as those who were members of the court. The only difference was in the quality of the material and the trimmings. Brocades, satins, and cloth-of-gold would have been beyond the means of the lower classes. Wool and home-spun linen were the materials used.

Although not made of precious jewels, decoration was commonplace. Carved wood or bone was always available for ornaments. For those a bit further up the economic scale, pewter or imitation pearls were used to make decorations.